Yangtze River Adventure

Continued

Overland to Batang and Chengdu

The trail to Batang crossed two passes that seemed to be around 15,000'. Snow and sleet formed at the rocky, highest points, and then the rain continued as we dropped back to the jungle-like foliage of the lower hills. We got to ride small ponies, riding on pack saddles, for much of the trip, but at times the way was so steep we get off so the ponies could be sure of their footing. By the end of the first day we arrived at a large cave in the limestone cliffs next to what looked like the end of the trail at a huge cliff.

Despite the rain, John Glascock was able to round up enough wood to make a fire whose flames leaped six feet into the air. We voted him the "Most Improved Camper." Food was chapati-like bread and yogurt, supplied by the rescue team. The second day began with a surprise. The trail continued up the cliff, accessed by a small crack that led to a steep valley, out of sight from the previous camp. This went up until we came to vast rolling hills of small plants and grass, which continued for several miles before dropping back down through a real forest, with many kinds of trees. Along the way we met a tradesman, bearing a great copper kettle, three feet in diameter, on his shoulders. His yaks were also loaded. We never did get his story, but, hunched over under his load, dressed only in loin cloth and sandals, rain coming down. I'm sure he had one.

By late afternoon we came to a faint road which later led to a logging camp and a truck, waiting to carry us about 20 K to Batang. In the courtyard of the camp we posed for a team picture, minus Ken and Paul. What a bedraggled bunch. We arrived at Batang before supper, about twenty minutes after Ken Warren arrived on his truck ride from Tibet. Two routes, different stories, same ending. Paul was there too, getting stronger by the day after having lost a few pounds on his trek. Ron had a package waiting for him, from his wife, Cheryl. He invited us to gather around as he tore off the brown wrapper. Inside were several layers of chocolate-chip cookies! We went nuts, eating almost all of them. Ron gave me a nudge and we left the cookie eaters. In the room we shared for our stay in Batang, Ron showed me what was under the cookies: about twenty Snickers and Milky Way bars! He shared these with me over the next few days as we waited for transportation to Chengdu and then Beijing.

During the whole river trip Ron and I shared a tent together. We had similar levels of dirtiness and fastidiousness, so made good tent mates. Imagine, living out of a tent for 53 days! Ron was a great oarsman and Mr. Fix-It. He had skills needed by any river expedition. Most important, however was his sharing.

Ron and I agreed that the trip was over. No fixing the rafts and getting back on the river. The rainy season was upon us as the expedition had taken longer than anticipated. When Ken asked us what we thought we were ready with one answer: let's go home. Ken nodded his head, but I could tell he was disappointed. We had accomplished much, but had not made it to Yibin where flat water steamers end their reach. We had covered 1,200 continuous miles from the source, however, and that was enough.

The Chinese government provided us with transportation to Chengdu and a plane ride to Beijing On the roads to Chengdu from Batang we went through country I can only dream of seeing again: High mountain passes, small villages stuck against the sides of mountains with rivers crashing down next to them. Mountain climbers had been through here, particularly Kanding, a jump off point for climbs to China's highest mountains. The children knew about Polaroid cameras, and were disappointed that our 35mm cameras didn't provide instant prints.

On the road, the last day before arriving in Chengdu, as our truck rounded a turn, a large boulder bounced across the road. We slowed and there, just beyond, was a massive landslide, seconds old, covering the road. We waited a few hours while the road was cleared, using an old bulldozer with a track that kept falling off. Ron helped the mechanics fix it. I took more pictures.

Chengdu is near a giant Buddha carved in stone on a tributary of the Yangtze, and near the Panda sanctuary, but we didn't visit these sites. We were worn out. As we waited to get a plane for Beijing all we could do was walk around the city and eat. Arriving eventually in Beijing that was all we could do there. No visits to the Imperial Palace or the the Great Wall. We just wanted to get home. Funny how once that sets in nothing can be enticing.

When we got home we were met by relatives and friends so glad to see us, and vice-versa. We also began to get an inkling of the misinformation that had spread about what happened on the expedition. I hope that readers who had heard any of that will now realize they have just read the true account, brief as it is, of the 1986 Sino-USA Upper Yangtze River Expedition, led by Ken and Jan Warren.

Ancil Nance, June 2, 2001

Note: Other expedition members with stories to tell can link from this site by sending me the URL.